Complete Ceracoat of Mini G, Ultimak Rail, Scope Rings, and Scope?

All - I've had a Mini G in my plans for a while: staying with 30-06, with Ultimak rail and Burris 2-7x32 extended eye relief scout Scope. My first plan was to get a new, unfinished, walnut stock, dye it ebony, and finish with lots of thin hand rubbed coats of pure tung oil. Did that, made a mess, stripped the stock, and did it again. This time with 3 coats of 50% PTO / 50% mineral spirits, then about 15 coats BLO, with each coat very very thin and allowed to cure a few days between each coat). Stock is smooth as a baby's bottom I sanded up to 1500 grit and gently used 00000 steel wool before each oil coat). (And yes, I know that was overkill). The stock feels great, and stock is well finished. I just don't like how it looks at all. And I'm not restripping it again!

So I began thinking of a Dupage laminate (winter camo) (discussed in a separate post on the Garand sub forum). Pros and cons to that. Heavier than walnut, bulkier, harder to match existing finish if I sand down the stock anywhere to customize fit to my hand, etc). I haven't decided against this, but I thought of another possibility.

Ceracoat my first stock - Now I'm considering again using the stock I worked so hard on (ebony dye, PTO and BLO finish, ultra smooth), but after I get my mini g with ultimak rail back from Tim, installing my Scope rings and scope and then send entire rifle, rings, and scope to have the whole thing (stock, all visible metal, rail, scope rings, scope, etc) ceracoated in a winter camo pattern.

Wuestions:

Have y'all seen this done before?
Can the wood stock handle the heat required in ceracoating?
Would the ceracoat interfere with bolt functioning?
Wood the ceracoat "adhere" properly on a pure tung oil / BLO finish?
Would it adhere to a stock that is smooth as butter on a baby's bottom?
Durability, particularly on bolt / moving parts?

I've seen this "complete camo" including rings and scope on AR pattern rifles, bolt guns, etc, but never on a Garand or M14 / M1A. If you've seen it on a Garand or m14 / M1a could you reference a pic?

Any thoughts whether pro or con?

Thanks, Greg

Anyone? Buehler? Buehler?

Never seen it done.

To your last post... "anyone, anyone"

Huh, I might have to be the first?

Hello, I'm new here but not new to guns. I have ceracoated several of my project guns including a ptr receiver hk 91, a 1919 for my friend and several pistols. I also did a mini 14 bullpup with hydrodip to try that process. I also have rust blued several guns to try that process out. You can go to the ceracoat website to check out the colors and they also recommend the process that has the best results on all surfaces to see the limitations. basically the short story is the surface needs to be pre heated to get the oils out of the crevases on the metal parts and then cleaned some more then glass beaded to rough up the surface just like any coating put on metal or any surface for that matter. magpul parts can be done at a lower temperature but the time frame is longer to get the coating to cure. I personally have never tried to do wood as that was never a thing I thought I would like. I like wood to be wood. I have glass beaded plastic at a lower air pressure to get the desired surface texture I wanted and also for the adhesion properties. I like ceracoat, I almost perfectly matched the hk color of the Portuguese parts kit I had, sort of a cosmoline parkerized color.