The bolt not staying open means that you don't have a spring which is so weak that the bolt is flying past the ammo before the ammo can be lifted. You simply have a gas situation which could be
A. A leak like the gas lock screw
B. Out of spec piston or cylinder
Now, this said, I know nothing of the ammo you're shooting and it could be lame stuff. Try some HXP and see what happens. If you still have the issue, try a slightly worn oprod spring.
Just tough to diagnose with no gun in your hand
Not Tim, but if the bolt does not stay open the op rod sping is weak & not
pushing the bolt back far enough to pick up the new round. I have had good
results with the Orion 7 spring, have not tried the Wolff. Hope this helps.
Tom
See themeowman, I would say that the spring is plenty strong and the gas can't push the bolt/oprod far enough back to hold the bolt open and let the clip eject. Hey, I could be wrong though.
That's another thing, does the clip eject after the last round? They usually don't when you don't have the gas and the spring is strong enough.
Tim, thanks for the explanation. I did not think of the gas not overcoming the
spring. I have always thought of a weak spring. It is great to keep learning. I
am now even more curious to see what the answer is!
Tom
themeowman, I'm not saying that I'm right bro. I just think I might be. I had this very issue with someone on this very forums rifle today. I switched the spring out for a slightly weaker one and the rifle worked. Here's the thing though, I was using LC and that stuff is the weakest ammo I know of. This rifle sounds like there's a gas leak somewhere. We have the cylinder, piston or screw. Something is up.
First, Welcome to the forumOriginally Posted by jbernat315
Who are "they" that you mentioned in your post ? A gunsmith ? The place or person you bought the garand from ? I'm just curious as to "they's" level of knowledge on the garand because "they" should have told you about the ammo.
Also, what is the part number on the op rod ? Is it something like "7790722-SA" ? I am asking because I had an op rod that like that and it caused a short cycling problem on my rifle. That part number is a National Match op rod and it rubs against the barrel a lot more than a regular op rod.
John
Don't worry if plan "A" fails, there are still 25 other letters in the alphabet.
Looking for S/A bayonets s/n 922033 & 1045220
Proud Member of M1CC #112
Saying the gas hole should be ABOUT 5/64 is like saying 1/8 of an inch is ABOUT a half-inch. You need to be a little more precise. Unfortunately the drill sizes to use for go/no-go gages escapes me right at the moment. If the hole is too small, not enough gas gets into the chamber to work the op rod. If it's too large, too much gas gets into the chamber and damage to the rod could be forth-coming.
Jon
Do you have the Gas Cylinder on to far down? That will cause the issues you are saying. The window should have the gas port centered in it and the handguard should have some play in it.
Mack
Tim- the clip does not eject after the last round is fired.
jak- "they" is an individual that I was referred to by a gunsmith who had more knowledge in M1's than he did. He was also the one who suggested getting the adjustable plug and/or military surplus ammo. the part number is 6536382-J.
Musketyjon- I measured the hole by putting a 5/64drill bit into it. it fit snugly into the hole.
cannonshooter- the gas port holes line-up.
I'll give you that Jon but the precise GI hole size escaped me too. I do know the commercial size and that is 5/64. The GI size will never be to small so if it is no larger than 5/64 than we're all set. Sometimes, I just say what I know in order to move stuff along. Feel my love baby.
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