Gas Trap pics- as promised

[themeowman]

That is a great looking rifle! Nice shooting also It is great to see this complete &
being used! Well done!
Tom

[Dave]

That is a great looking rifle! Nice shooting also It is great to see this complete &
being used! Well done!
Tom

Thanks Tom. If you let me know when you'll be at Riley's next I can bring it along and you can fondle it in person.
I'm usually there on thursday or friday evenings.

[dan]

Very nicely done sir. having done a couple myself I know what you went through.

Since you plan on shooting it regularly (three cheers for that) I suggest you pay attention to the way the op-rod closes after about ~250 rounds. It may feel a bit notchy as it rotates the bolt into battery. This is caused by carbon buildup on the backside of the gas plug and the op-rod piston face is contacting that buildup. It will be time to remove the plug and scrape it.

Also I would suggest you replace the solid firing pin with a regular production pin for shooting purposes.

Regards, Dan.

[themeowman]

Dave
PM sent
Tom

[timshufflin]

Alright, I have a question Dan. If a guy wanted to make a gas trap rifle and NOT make the thing correct, what would the cost be to just toss a mixmaster together for an example to have on hand?

[Dave]

Alright, I have a question Dan. If a guy wanted to make a gas trap rifle and NOT make the thing correct, what would the cost be to just toss a mixmaster together for an example to have on hand?

Figure the cost of your donor rifle, add to that $2250 for the RatWorx kit. They have type1 or type2, same price. Plus shipping.
Bubba may also still have access to one of the older Barnett kits.

[Dave]

Very nicely done sir. having done a couple myself I know what you went through.

Since you plan on shooting it regularly (three cheers for that) I suggest you pay attention to the way the op-rod closes after about ~250 rounds. It may feel a bit notchy as it rotates the bolt into battery. This is caused by carbon buildup on the backside of the gas plug and the op-rod piston face is contacting that buildup. It will be time to remove the plug and scrape it.

Also I would suggest you replace the solid firing pin with a regular production pin for shooting purposes.

Regards, Dan.

Thanks for the tip Dan. I'll keep an eye on it. I probably will swap out the firing pin, and might keep a few other spare parts handy when shooting it, like a tuned trigger group. Lately I've been thinking about doing another, but not like this. I have an 18K I built with early parts a few years back but used a 1945 gas port barrel. I've been thinking of culling a few spare rifles from the herd and buy another kit for that 18K.......

[dan]

Alright, I have a question Dan. If a guy wanted to make a gas trap rifle and NOT make the thing correct, what would the cost be to just toss a mixmaster together for an example to have on hand?

Figure the cost of your donor rifle, add to that $2250 for the RatWorx kit. They have type1 or type2, same price. Plus shipping.
Bubba may also still have access to one of the older Barnett kits.

That about sizes it up. The rifle will function properly with a normal standard op-rod spring and for safely reasons a late firing pin should be substituted. My "shooter" is a low 5 digit with a Barnett front end. The Barnett front handguard ferrule is made like the originals and looks a bit better than the RatWorx ferrule. I was told that the Barnett ferrule was the most difficult part to do.

For the rifle to look "right" it should really have a flushnut rear sight,a solid buttplate and a slant-side op-rod. Of course all of these features will add significantly to the cost of the rifle. If you are doing a late typeII Gas Trap a curved-side op-rod would present the correct appearance. A WRA op-rod (not cheap of course) will look correct on an early rifle, I used one until I obtained a D35382-0 bottom-marked rod.

The Barnett gas cylinder and plug are magnetic stainless like the originals and are blackened in some manner (that appears to be more durable than the original 1936 finish) and more closely approximates a "new rifle" look. I'm sure that the RatWorx parts could be finished in that manner.

Is the RatWorx gas cylinder magnetic?

[The Garand Guy]

I have REPRO keystone springs, $100/set, and REPRO no-trap buttplates,$100 ea, & a REPRO GAS TRAP BARREL FOR $350, & ONE THAT DOES NOT HEADSPACE FOR $160.00+ shipping. i CAN ALSO BLACKEN THE CYLINDERS WITH STAINLESS STEEL BLUEING FOR $35
I also have a REAL late plug for $1500

Tony
Giacobbe, the Garand Guy

[bubbaroc]

I have some more of the lip type ferrules that Gene made and "shootable" new made ,keystone type springs and type I follower rods. Might have a couple of Gene's kits left.

Bubba