Sean and Shug, I may have a couple of the bolts and nuts used to mount the grip on the Nigerian ,back from when I had some of these made. If using a plastic grip you will need to have a filler block made to keep the grip in position .
Is there a hole drilled in the wood near the heal area at an angle?
I will do some checking and see if I have any of the screws and nuts.
PM me your address again Sean?
M1CC #328
Mike,
The hole is not drilled yet. These are terrible.
[SIGPIC]
Mike,
Thanks for the offer, but I ended up using a 4", hex head 1/4" machine screw. It's not pretty, but then again nobody but me looks inside the stock. I'm not quite satisfied with how the wood grip fits and may end up machining an aluminum block to act as a tenon between stock and grip. But then I need to figure how to secure that block to the stock, because the wood between the bolt "shelf" and the mortise on the bottom of the stock isn't that substantial. If I went with the custom block, I'd probably fabricate one that would mate with an off-the-shelf modern grip of some sort. It's not as if these stocks have historic value. It's all just for fun.
These are definitely project stocks. If someone's buying one because, like me, they enjoy woodworking, then maybe it's worth the money (at the $175 cost, at least). But someone who is looking for something to quickly and cleanly bed a Garand into should look elsewhere.
Then again, other than SEI's EBR Garand "stock", I don't know where else to go for a Garand pistol grip stock anymore except for custom stocksmiths.
Shug
Originally Posted by mikebaker1129
The stocks I purchased from Reese all had a wooden grip that fit the inletting pretty good. Those that came with the Plastic grip had a wooden filler block installed.
M1CC #328
Here is the end result of my Nigerian stock efforts. Resting it in is a Mini-G that has been modified with a Standard Parts, LLC reproduction drop-down cylinder (which needed more fitting work than the stock), an Ultimak Pic rail, and a Trijicon RMR sitting on a Hopco mount. Yes, maybe I went too far with the tacticool stuff, but it's not as if there's anything historically accurate about the rifle.
The grip and attachment aren't as good as I'd like, so maybe some time later I'll mill an aluminum mounting block and stick an MSR grip on there. Anybody know where I can find one made in walnut?
Nigerian_Mini-G.jpg
Thank God we can count on the fact that the moron who was responsible for the gas cylinder that required so much fitting will absolutely, positively, never do them again. If anything, something good came out of your project.
Sounds like there's a story behind those GCs...
The cylinders were waaay undersized. When changing out to the straight oprod when I swapped cylinders, I had to silver braze a new oprod tip on the rod after shortening, and assumed everything would be okay because while the piston seemed tight, it passed a tilt test in the rifle. When I had a chance to shoot the rifle, the carbon fouling after about 5-6 shots seized it up tight. I had to batter the oprod handle with a screwdriver handle to extract the live round that wasn't quite chambered so I could safely pack the rifle up to go home. After I cleaned out the GC I gauged it, and boy, was I surprised. I thought I'd confused my GC Min gauge with the Max gauge.
I ended up lapping the oprod tip to the cylinder. Next time I get to the range I'll find out if I did enough or too much.
Last edited by Shug; 11-12-2016 at 11:39 PM.
Yeah, "Cylinders" ---must be a lot of them out there all messed up. No doubt there is a "story" behind them, one can only imagine. For sure, some good info to be had from this post. Never thought about a "go-no" gage for the gas cylinder as that sounds like a sure fire way to check the gas cylinder. Stupid me for spending money on a GI type gas cylinder gage, or, using a I.D. bore gage when a tilt test would have accomplished the same thing. Lapping sounds like a real money saver rather then checking the tip/piston with a mic after installing a new one and having to turn the tip to size as how many guys that do builds have a lathe available. Sure sounds like you know your business. All in all, a very informative post on changing over a Mini-G to a drop down gas cylinder!
Last edited by ordmm; 11-12-2016 at 11:01 PM.
For others' reference, here are the other parts I used for the build in addition to what I mentioned above:
Standard Parts:
- BM rear swivel, swivel nut, and swivel nut retainer.
- Builders' gas cylinder lock.
- BM stock ferrule
- BM straight oprod (shortened for the Mini-G barrel length with new standard-size tip silver brazed)
USGI:
- Buttplate
- Stamped trigger guard (milled will not work with the pistol grip)
Other:
- Holbrook device (replaces GI oprod catch)
- Shuster adjustable gas plug
Last edited by Shug; 11-12-2016 at 11:50 PM.
Nothing to see here, move along...
Eli
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