Question for the reloaders

[Orlando]

I am finally going to jump into the world of reloading, getting a RCBS master kit.
Going to start with 223 for my Match AR and wondered do you guys full length resize everytime?
Any certain powder you recommend? Seems Varget is popular
Thanks

[buzzy]

I reload .30-06 and .308 mostly, but have loaded .223 in the past.
The rule that I use is this:
If I am loading for any semi-automatic, I always full length size. Also, all of my .308 gets sized with a small base die. Small based dies size further down the case almost to the rim. Full length dies only size down to the case web. I do this because I have several rifles that the ammo may be used in. The chambers will vary from military barrels to some commercial barrels. Before I started using the small based die, I had a slam fire caused by a over sized web sticking in the chamber of a "tight" commercial barrel. Fortunately, no damage, except a little brown in my pants!
If I am sizing for a bolt action, I keep the brass separated by rifle after it is fire formed. Then you can neck size only several times before full length sizing again.
Hope this helps.

[buzzy]

One other thing a neglected to mention.
When firing from a bolt action weapon, the brass forms to the shape of the chamber and retains the head space dimension.
This is not the case with a semi auto. The hot brass actually is still growing after being ejected from the rifle. This means that the brass case does not match the chamber and the head space dimension will always be longer that the chamber.
I have see anywhere from +.003" to +.007 inch growth in the head space dimension depending on how hot the weapon was.

[Orlando]

Thanks for the reply
I will be relaoding .223 and 30.06 for semi auto only.
I'm sure once I get started I will pick your brain some more
Thanks again

[buzzy]

Happy to help. I have been reloading for many years.
I would recommend that you purchase cartridge headspace gauges for the two calibers that you are going to load.
RCBS makes a great gauge for this and they run around $40 each. These are a must in my book for setting up your sizing dies and monitoring your case headspace dimension during your sizing process.
Incidentally, I have never used a small base die for my .30-06 Garand loads. I have never found one with a tight chamber and have not had a problem using standard full length dies. .308 is a different story!

[Orlando]

If I full length resize why do I need the cartridge headspace gauge? I'm not real clear on the benafit of it.

[buzzy]

The cartridge headspace is determined by the die set up. You can control this dimension by using the gage and setting your die to the desired dimension.
I size all of my cases to .000" +-.001" on the headspace dimension. The secret to accuracy is matching your load to your rifle and maintaining a consistant loading process. But you also want to be safe doing it.

[Orlando]

So if I understand correctly ,you use this guage to set your full length sizer to the deminsion of the particular rifles chamber.
As long as I am using the ammo in the same rifle its something I basically use once to set the sizer and maybe everynow and then incase headspace increases with wear?

Besides dies and the headspace gauge what else do I need to get started?

Master Kit Includes:


•Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage press
•505 scale
•Uniflow Powder Measure
•Speer Reloading Manual
•Hand priming tool with small and large primer plugs
•Folding Hex Key Set with 0.050", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64" and 5/32" keys
•Universal Case Loading Block, which holds 40 cases in most rifle and pistol calibers
•Case Lube Kit, which includes a 2 oz bottle of Case Lube-2, a case lube pad, 2 case neck brushes for .22 through .30 calibers and an accessory handle
•Powder Funnel for .22 to .45 caliber, including the Winchester Short Magnum calibers
•Chamfer and deburring tool for .17 through .60 caliber


Thanks I appreciate it

[buzzy]

I would strongly urge you to read up a little bit on headspacing before you get started. You have the equipment necessary to get started. Reloading can be a very relaxing and enjoyable experience or it can be very frustrating and dangerous if not done correctly.

Each time you change the dies in your press you should check the cartridge head space on the first case to ensure that you are operating in a safe range. SAMMI specs. If you set your die to deep, you will get a short headspace (dangerous). If you don't set it deep enough you will get a long headspace and the bolt may not close on the round. (very dangerous).
That's about all I can recommend for now.

[Orlando]

Will do
I also have a buddy that reloads and is going to help
Thanks again

[melloman]

Buy a tumbler kit, primer pocket brushes and a case trimmer. If you are loading military brass, you will need to swage or cut the primer pocket crimp away or you will find it difficult/impossible to seat the primers.

[tljames]

"O" , did I send you a copy of Sierra's Infinity Suite? If not I'll see to it! It's a Reloading Manual + ballistics program, very useful resource! Lemme know Thomas

[Orlando]

TL
PM sent
Thanks

[canes7]

O - Don't forget a trimmer. You'll definately need that. I am sure you probably have a dial caliper around too.

As far as powders go.. I use Reloader-15, it seems to burn a bit cleaner than Varget and meters just as well.

Dies - I use a Dillon carbide sizing sie and have one of their cartridge headspace guages. In that past I've used the RCBS X-die. I do not remember why I switched, it may have had something to do with neck tension consistancy. Since the switch to the Dillon dies I've been a happier man.

Have fun getting started. I guarantee that at one point soon you'll wonder why you started this endevour then realize when you've got a big pile of ammo why.

[M1orNone]

I reload now for my .220 Swift, 7x57 and 8mm-06 (because that's all I've got left now). With new brass, I full-length size, after that, neck-size only. With a bolt action, I seat the bullets .050" off the rifling. I can't remember the last time I bought factory ammo, besides old M2 Ball for my M1. I never could get factory ammo to shoot very well. My preferred die brand is RCBS, but Hornady makes a good set too. Reloading is a hobby, as well as an addiction of sorts. I've been rollin' my own for 22 years now, and I don't see ever getting tired of it. Have fun with it!

[cannonshooter]

O,
If you ever buy once fired brass from someone you might want to invest in a small base sizer, I bought 06 and it was shot out of a 1919 full length sizing would not touch the case web and i ended up with rounds that would not chamber. So now all once fired brass gets run through a small base. You find this also if you buy .223 cases as alot of the brass sold as once fired comes from the military and is shot out of SAW's.
Mack

[sgtrock]

I have been reloading since 1968. Agree with all comments to date. Two thoughts; Consider getting a powder trickler as it makes precise charge measurement much easier (yes,I weigh every charge) and you may decide to try other case lubes as time goes on ( I use Imperial Die Wax). Also, with most load combo's max velocity does not usually mean min group size. While there are many factors involved, I am of the opinion that the best way to go is to try for maximum consistency from round to round. Loading ammo that is more consistent than factory is fairly straight forward. Good luck, have fun and stay safe.

[Orlando]

sgtrock
Thanks for the reply and welcome to the forum

[howie]

I haven't been reloading long, but I'm a big RCBS fan, so far. I've busted a few decapping pins, and totally crinkled the rod on my primer pocket swager (I haven't a clue how I did that). Went to the RCBS website, found what I thought I needed and fired off an E-mail to make sure I was ordering the right stuff. They sent me one back confirming my choices and asked for my address. Had some brand new stuff in the mail a few days later, and they didn't even charge me shipping.

As for case trimmers, there's a lot of them out there. As manual trimmers go, what do you guys like, cuz I need to order one.

[melloman]

I use the RCBS manual trimmer with the 3-way cutterhead for .223/5.56 and .30 cal. Only other one that I've tried is a manual Redding. Tomato/Tow-MAH-tow; no appreciable difference to me.

[MajorD]

case length is critical- most 223 /556 cases will be overlength after the first firing and will ned to be trimmed back before reloading. I use a small base sizer which helps getting rounds in tight match chambers and will help if you load for more than one rifle.