Feed problems

[Jimbo Slice]

Greetings, I was out shooting my Garand a month or so ago when I developed a peculiar feed issue.

The first 8 rounds went through perfectly, after that I would fire a round, the spent case would eject, and the bolt assembly would move forward but not lock. It would also not load the next round into the chamber.

I would then manually pull the bolt to the rear and release it, thus loading the next round.

I was shooting Greek surplus ball ammo Lot 1106-HXP-67.

Any thoughts?

[Prince Humperdink]

Jimbo,
The first thing I would check would be my gas cylinder screw,if that was tight,I would inspect it(out of the rifle)for any cracks or debris),still no, I would check my op rod piston for undersize or damage,then gas cylinder for excessive wear.If not any of these i'd check op rod spring,op rod tilt test,and if still nothing,I would curl up in fetal position on the ground and cry myself to sleep.Luckily,first things are usual cause.
Ryan

[Jimbo Slice]

Will I be needing any special tools, and what should I expect when removing the gas cylinder screw? Also, what diameter should my op rod be to remain within spec? I have the knowledge to do the job and read a mic ( I'm a wrench by trade), but I've never done anything beyond a field strip and cleaning to my rifle.

Thank you very much for the help.

EDIT: After a bit more research I found this website...

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-failure-to-cycle

Would you consider this info to be accurate and reliable? (I hope I didn't break any rules by posting a vendor link.)

Anyway, I guess it's time to post a pic of my rifle so you guys can see the tragedy I'm dealing with.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/saucie1/SANY0471-1.jpg

[Prince Humperdink]

Will I be needing any special tools, and what should I expect when removing the gas cylinder screw? Also, what diameter should my op rod be to remain within spec? I have the knowledge to do the job and read a mic ( I'm a wrench by trade), but I've never done anything beyond a field strip and cleaning to my rifle.

Thank you very much for the help.

EDIT: After a bit more research I found this website...

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-failure-to-cycle

Would you consider this info to be accurate and reliable? (I hope I didn't break any rules by posting a vendor link.)

Anyway, I guess it's time to post a pic of my rifle so you guys can see the tragedy I'm dealing with.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/saucie1/SANY0471-1.jpg
Off of memory,it all looks good to Me.Keep Us updated.
Ryan

[Jimbo Slice]

Does my op rod look bent, or is it supposed to be like that? Please forgive me, I'm quite the noob when dealing with the more technical nuances of the Garand.

[Prince Humperdink]

Does my op rod look bent, or is it supposed to be like that? Please forgive me, I'm quite the noob when dealing with the more technical nuances of the Garand.
Op rod should be bent in that manner.If it is exact is another matter.Your rifle looks as if it has some nice,early parts.Please ditch that stock and put a front handguard on. :)
Ryan

[timshufflin]

Despite your oprod supposed to be being bent, it may be bent out of whack. Your saying your bolt isn't going into battery and that usually means your oprod isn't moving at the minimum amount of freeplay needed.

[Jimbo Slice]

Despite your oprod supposed to be being bent, it may be bent out of whack. Your saying your bolt isn't going into battery and that usually means your oprod isn't moving at the minimum amount of freeplay needed.

Visual inspection doesn't show any lateral movement of the op rod. However, I will take this into consideration, thank you for your help.

I plan to proceed as follows: This week I'll disassemble the rifle's gas system and bring it to work. I'll check the piston's O.D. with a micrometer and check the gas cylinder I.D. with an I.D. snap gauge and a micrometer. I'll also check the area where the rifle barrel ports into the gas tube. If any of these components are out of tolerance, I'll plan to replace or repair accordingly.

Another thought I had concerned the stock itself. I had today off so I spent the day bouncing around the internet. In my travels I came across the "teardown/rebuild gas system type stuff" on the C.M.P. website. In it was mentioned the fact that the gas cylinder should butt up against the forward hand grip of the rifle. My rifle has no forward hand grip, which leads me to believe that the gas cylinder is held in position by the locking screw itself, and that alignment from the port coming from the barrel might be off.

And then there's the whole "crappily ground and chromed" gas cylinder (sans bayonet lug and front sight ears) itself.


So much to think about.


EDIT: When I say "I.D. Snap Gage", I mean one of these...

https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSE4H9g1827vWstUXT87A9qVrOYv-8HBU2G32NVSR1K5W4FUJ6F


I don't possess the purpose-built ones.

[Orlando]

Personally I have never seen a gas cylinder that didnt align in the port hole when lock is bbottomed out, anyone else??
I'm thinking its just about repeated internet rumor

Along with all the things you mentioned do foregt the easy stuff
Rifle properly greased?
Lock screw tight?
lock screw leaking? you can put a piece of tape over the end of gas screw and fire rifle. If it gets blown of or loose lock is leaking and needs cleaned or replaced
Replace Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7
Check receiver internals to see if anything is bent broke

[melloman]

Looks like a Mini G conversion just begging to happen. Just saying...

[timshufflin]

I'd be checking that oprod for a tilt test. Not going into battery means something is jammed. Yes, your rod could be jamming against the stock.

[Orlando]

I'd be checking that oprod for a tilt test. Not going into battery means something is jammed. Yes, your rod could be jamming against the stock.

Good point

[Jimbo Slice]

Ok, the rifle passed the tilt test so I disassembled the gas system. What I found was a horrific amount of fouling throughout (there was a big booger hanging out of the gas port on the barrel).

I've cleaned all of the components with solvent followed by lube and will be bringing the op rod and gas tube in for measurement tomorrow.

I thought that I was cleaning my rifle properly, but it appears that I've still got a lot to learn.

[Orlando]

If you are using a cleaning station when cleaning the bore turn the rifle upside down so the solevant/oil etc will not run into the gas port

[Jimbo Slice]

Took the parts in today...

It appears that my gas tube is out of round as I had readings ranging from 0.528 to 0.530, of course operator error could explain the 0.002 discrepancy.

The gas piston also appears to be out of spec with a measurement of 0.524.

So, does anybody know where I can find a period correct gas tube? (Oct. 41 SA) I was going to start my restoration with a stock, but it looks like the gas system is more pressing.

[Orlando]

Without proper gauges I wouldnt put alot of faith in your gas cylinder measurements
Before I would change it I would get the out of spec piston replaced on the Op Rod

[Jimbo Slice]

Is it possible to simply replace the piston as opposed to replacing the entire op rod?

[Orlando]

Sure is
http://www.columbusmachine.com/oprod.htm
I need to send the Op Rod on my BM59 for a piston replacement

[timshufflin]

I wouldn't even replace the piston. If your rifle runs, what is wrong with the piston? Your issue was a hang up in the oprod right? Too small a piston would actually make your oprod move more freely. For all we know your gas port is over size on that rifle. I wouldn't replace or repair squat unless it didn't work.

My Mini-G gas pistons are often undersized slightly, doesn't matter though because my gas ports are slightly oversized and I use Schuster gas lock screws.