MIni G Accurizing

[dross]

Any quick and easy accurizing tips? Does an ultimak rail affect accuracy one way or another?

[buckshot85]

Any quick and easy accurizing tips? Does an ultimak rail affect accuracy one way or another?
Ultimak seems to have no negative effect on accuracy. Mine also needs no modifications. Shoots real well with the Schuster plug that Tim installed.

[timshufflin]

What is your definition of accurate? It's possible that the rifle may not be able to meet your goals. I only promise standard Garand accuracy, not match accuracy. I have not noticed negative affects on accuracy from the Ultimak.

[dogboysdad]

My HBAR mag fed BM-14 is quite accurate. It is on par with any of my Garands.

[dross]

What is your definition of accurate? It's possible that the rifle may not be able to meet your goals. I only promise standard Garand accuracy, not match accuracy. I have not noticed negative affects on accuracy from the Ultimak.

My definition of accurate? A rifle that covers up all my mistakes and makes me shoot better than I can. :)

My question is more general than specific. I'm just asking about general things I could do to tighten groups. For instance, I've read the rear handguard shouldn't be tight against the stock or the receiver. I've read that the trigger group should be tight in the stock. Are those true in your experience? How much does glass bedding help? Just general stuff like that.

[buckshot85]

You can't do the accurrizing til you've shot the rifle and see what you have. You are way ahead of yourself. Rear handguards are a 2 minute fix. Trigger group should have a tight draw. This is all common stuff. How much glass bedding helps is another question that cannot be answered. It may help, it may hurt, it may not make any difference. A "G" is a carbine basically. If you are looking for 1/2 minute stuff at a 100 yds. with any Grarand, good luck. More like 2"-3" is pretty good in my book.

[timshufflin]

The trigger group should be "tight". By tight, good resistance within 1/2" of closing. I've found with the Mini-G that the handguard scenario doesn't necessarily apply, the barrel is short and very rigid so not nearly as susceptible to barrel whip and harmonics. Glass bedding, I wouldn't waste my time but your wants and needs are what matters.

I understand people's want to turn everything into something that shoots .001" at 100 yards but on the G the biggest things that seem to affect accuracy are the muzzle, trigger lock up, tight gas cylinder, and stock clearance under the front of the barrel. I hunt critters and don't punch paper so I just don't get into all the stuff that paper punchers do. I just want my gun to go bang and hit stuff at 200 yards.

[buckshot85]

Dross, get a "G". Tim makes a damn fine rifle and I doubt you'll regret it. Don't get up in all the accuracy stuff. Every, EVERY guy I have let shoot my "G", wants it and typically makes me an offer. I just picked another receiver and in time will get it to Tim for another. The only paper test I've done with mine was to shoot it at 80 yards, kneeled down off my other knee with HXP ammo. Sort of rapid fire and it puled in a solid 2.5" group. I am no match shooter. I sent Tim a new Criterion barrel to use. Others use surplus barrels and still have great luck and tons of fun shooting it. He also is great to talk to over the phone. Call the man and get it ordered.

[timshufflin]

You can't do the accurrizing til you've shot the rifle and see what you have. You are way ahead of yourself. Rear handguards are a 2 minute fix. Trigger group should have a tight draw. This is all common stuff. How much glass bedding helps is another question that cannot be answered. It may help, it may hurt, it may not make any difference. A "G" is a carbine basically. If you are looking for 1/2 minute stuff at a 100 yds. with any Grarand, good luck. More like 2"-3" is pretty good in my book.


Exactly correct. I have this conversation with someone probably every other day. I designed and marketed this rifle as open sight, semi automatic, hunting rifle first. I can appreciate those who want to wring out every bit of accuracy they can, it's fun, but it's not what I designed it for. The Mini-G does have a short, strong, rigid barrel though and that makes up for a lot of sin.

[timshufflin]

Dross, get a "G". Tim makes a damn fine rifle and I doubt you'll regret it. Don't get up in all the accuracy stuff. Every, EVERY guy I have let shoot my "G", wants it and typically makes me an offer. I just picked another receiver and in time will get it to Tim for another. The only paper test I've done with mine was to shoot it at 80 yards, kneeled down off my other knee with HXP ammo. Sort of rapid fire and it puled in a solid 2.5" group. I am no match shooter. I sent Tim a new Criterion barrel to use. Others use surplus barrels and still have great luck and tons of fun shooting it. He also is great to talk to over the phone. Call the man and get it ordered.

I do appreciate the kind words. The real accuracy issue that CAN come up with a Mini-G is from time to time you'll have one shoot high. This is easily fixed by grinding/milling the base of the rear sight aperture. I believe that this is more common on the Mini-G then on a standard Garand. Any time this has happened I gladly pay to have the person ship me their rear aperture and I make the mod. I would do it standard but fear that someone would object to the mod and don't want to have that hassle if not needed. This happens maybe 1 in 25 to 35 rifles.

[Orlando]

If you ever run into a rifle were grinding the rear aperture isnt enough Roland Beaver sells a tall front sight. Not cheap but its a fix

[dross]

Shot for groups today. Two 5 round groups at 100 yards. One group was 5", one was 6". Moved to 200 yards, 5 rounds, 11" group.

How does this compare to what you guys are used to?

[timshufflin]

That is not a very good group at all. What ammo? Scoped or unscoped?

[dross]

Not scoped. Ammo was a civilian version of 7.62 ball. I forget the company.

[timshufflin]

Not scoped. Ammo was a civilian version of 7.62 ball. I forget the company.

What are your normal Garand iron sight groups? Don't get me wrong, I've seen plenty of 5" groups in our postal shoots but I have no idea of your or anyone else's true skill levels.

[Punch The Clown]

Dross, I pretty much suck compared to Canes and Orlando, but I still manage reasonable groups. The G isn't plagued by all that wood in front so it should be at least as accurate as a full size Garand BUT!!! remember the sight radius is way shorter. What the Italians did on the BM59's to make up for this was to use a .062 width front sight which is the same as a US National Match. They're available. Also, a rear NM aperture helps, especially if you're over 40 years old. Also, I printed up targets that are just a 6" black ball on white paper and use a 6 o'clock hold and get some reasonable groups.

[dross]

What size groups are you getting? What's reasonable?

I'm using a 3.25 MOA RMR red dot, mounted in the rear site well.

I haven't shot for groups with a regular Garand but I shoot about an inch to 2 inches with my peep sighted CZ 452, 22, at 50 yards.

With a scope I've shot many groups at around a half inch at 100 yards, so my breathing and trigger pull should be okay.

I would be happy with consistent 4" groups at 100, and 8" groups at 200.

I think the culprit could easily be my sight picture because I didn't use a target that I could see that well.

[Punch The Clown]

If you are shooting 2" groups at 50 you're already a 4 MOA shooter. The NM front sight will improve matters greatly. High contrast targets also help bigtime. A 6" dayglo orange spot on a white background will give you tons of contrast. On a bright sunny day I can squeeze maybe 3" groups at 100yds out of my Bm59. That's about the best I can muster but I'm not 20 years old anymore. My 700PSS is another story. That shoots 1/2" groups but we're talking apples and oranges here.

[timshufflin]

I'm curious to see how it shoots with the USGI sights. I cannot comment on the red dot as I know nothing of them. A group, to me, is 10 rounds. I would be happy personally with anything under 4" but 5" is just too much for me to swallow when I hunt.

[Mike]

Shot for groups today. Two 5 round groups at 100 yards. One group was 5", one was 6". Moved to 200 yards, 5 rounds, 11" group.

How does this compare to what you guys are used to?

Hi, are you using sand bags or some other rest? When testing accuracy I use big red bulls and a six o'clock hold. I'm testing the rifle not me,Regards, Mike

[dross]

Update:

Went out today to sight in a couple of new rifles. I also took along my AR equipped with a red dot sight, like my Mini G. The only difference is that my AR red dot has a 1MOA dot, whereas my Mini G has a 3.25 MOA dot. I've never shot my AR with the red dot for groups, but when I first got it I mounted a scope on it and shot it for accuracy. There's no ammo I could find that would make it shoot over about 1.25".

So, shooting a five shot group at 100 yards, it measured...just over 5 inches. In other words, my highly accurate AR shot the same as my Mini G. Obviously the issue is me, or more precisely, my eyes. It's a sight picture issue, I'm convinced.

I"m going to get new glasses and I'll bet I shrink all my non-magnified groups.

[timshufflin]

Good luck Dross

[dross]

Update: I ordered a C.A.S.M. mount for my Mini-G and put a Mueller 2x7 scope on it. With the same ammo I was using to check it's accuracy with iron sights I got a 4" 12 shot group at 100 yards. I was getting 5.5 to 6 inch groups with irons. At 200 yards I tried some better ammo and got a 7-shot 5.25" group.

BTW, that mount is an ingenious design. For those of you who have had them for a while, are they pretty rugged? Do the hold zero over the long haul getting bumped around?

[Hamour]

Update: I ordered a C.A.S.M. mount for my Mini-G and put a Mueller 2x7 scope on it. With the same ammo I was using to check it's accuracy with iron sights I got a 4" 12 shot group at 100 yards. I was getting 5.5 to 6 inch groups with irons. At 200 yards I tried some better ammo and got a 7-shot 5.25" group.

BTW, that mount is an ingenious design. For those of you who have had them for a while, are they pretty rugged? Do the hold zero over the long haul getting bumped around?

I have been using the CASM mount on my M1 Garand and M1A for two years now. Both mounts have done very well and have been strudy dependable systems. Scopes are 3x9 Leupold and Nikon.

M1A
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/HamourKiller/Hunting/2013%20Hunting%20Pictures/Grandpas/IMG_2371.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/HamourKiller/media/Hunting/2013%20Hunting%20Pictures/Grandpas/IMG_2371.jpg.html)


M1 Garand
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/HamourKiller/Hunting/2013%20Hunting%20Pictures/Alazan%20Bayou%20WMA/2013Hunts132.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/HamourKiller/media/Hunting/2013%20Hunting%20Pictures/Alazan%20Bayou%20WMA/2013Hunts132.jpg.html)
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a178/HamourKiller/Hunting/2013%20Hunting%20Pictures/Gus%20Engeling%20WMA%20Section%2013/2013Hunts048.jpg (http://s11.photobucket.com/user/HamourKiller/media/Hunting/2013%20Hunting%20Pictures/Gus%20Engeling%20WMA%20Section%2013/2013Hunts048.jpg.html)

[buckshot85]

Any issues with ejected brass bouncing off the mount erratically or reentering the action?

[Hamour]

Any issues with ejected brass bouncing off the mount erratically or reentering the action?

Absolutely not, the reliability of the M1A and M1 are the same. No changes.
The M1 requires a "Thumbsaver" to keep the en bloc clip inplace, but reliability is not affected.