New member with a question about M1 triger pull

[swestland]

Purchased my Garand from CMP about 13 years ago and have enjoyed target shooting.
Recently sent it to James River for reworking. Parkerized, new stock, inspected... Returned a nice looking restored rifle.
But the trigger pull now sticks at the just at the point of discharge. First time I fired it, I thought I'd left the safety engaged! $vomit$
Would like to send the trigger assembly to Shuff's for a trigger job, but do not want to lose it for several weeks.
Is there anything that I can do to smooth the pull, until I can part with it for a trigger job?
Cheers,
Steve

[jak]

Welcome to the forum, swestland

Remove the trigger assembly from the rifle and try it out of the stock. If the trigger still binds, then you might have rough parkerization which
has to be remove. Also make sure it is properly lubed. If the trigger does not bind out of the stock then the problem is with the stock and
some wood would have to be removed to fix it.
If you still have the old stock, put the rifle in that stock and see if the trigger still binds.

If you don't feel comfortable working on the rifle then contact James River Armory and tell them to fix it since the problem occurred after they worked on it.

[swestland]

Welcome to the forum, swestland
Remove the trigger assembly from the rifle and try it out of the stock. If the trigger still binds, then you might have rough parkerization which has to be remove. Also make sure it is properly lubed. If the trigger does not bind out of the stock then the problem is with the stock and some wood would have to be removed to fix it.


Thanks' jak,
Trigger works much better out of the stock, and requires considerable pressure to close trigger guard when reinstalling.
Is it possible for me to tweaks the stock fit?
Suggestions?
I hate to give it up for the time necessary to ship back.
Steve

[jak]

Orlando is the expert on stock fitting. He has some good info under the "How to" section of this forum.

http://forum.shuffsparkerizing.com/showthread.php?31-quot-How-to-quot-on-Commercial-Stock-Fitting

Halfway down in his post is a picture of where to remove some wood from under the trigger.
I would try that first.

Also needing considerable force to close trigger guard is good. "Tight" is good.

[swestland]

jak, Again, thanks' for the advice.
The trigger seems to work normal when out of the rifle. So I did relive a small amount of wood for the trigger travel. At first I thought it solved the problem.
But, what I'm finding is that the trigger occasionally hangs at the "bump" and resists firing. Position seems to have influence. With the rifle pointed up the trigger pulls to the bump then fires crisp with added pressure. When it is operating correct. The trigger can be squeezed to the bump and then released to neutral. When it hangs, I can release the trigger and it remains locked in the bump and resists firing!
Wish that Shuff's did not have a backlog for work!
SW :confused:

[Orlando]

If James River caused the issue I would contact them

[timshufflin]

I'm guessing the problem is the surface of the stock directly under the back of the trigger itself. This is a complete guess based on a bit of experience. The area at the rear of the trigger cut out where the rear of the trigger group fits into is the area I'm talking about. In fact, when you take the trigger group out of your stock do you see a tiny thin line where the back of the trigger itself is hitting?

If this is the case, remove about .020" from that area with a milling machine or file of sorts.

[swestland]

I'm guessing the problem is the surface of the stock directly under the back of the trigger itself. This is a complete guess based on a bit of experience. The area at the rear of the trigger cut out where the rear of the trigger group fits into is the area I'm talking about. In fact, when you take the trigger group out of your stock do you see a tiny thin line where the back of the trigger itself is hitting?

If this is the case, remove about .020" from that area with a milling machine or file of sorts.
Tried that Tim. Did not see a hit mark, but gave the area a small amount of added relief with a craft blade. Don't think it made a difference. Will still catch, but not constant. I'll test fire a few round latter.
Hope your convalescence is speedy. Can't wait to have you work on the trigger group.
Thanks'
Steve

[timshufflin]

If your group works out of the rifle, you don't need trigger work, you need stock work. That is if it's the same trigger group we're talking about.

[swestland]

1237Problem Solved! But, now I'm not sure I do not need to replace some trigger components!
After much playing with the trigger both in and out of the rifle, I've solved the problem. Is this a correct fit or do I need to replace something?
The trigger would "stick at the end of the trigger pull both in and out of the rifle, but was positional dependent. It felt and looked like the tension to brake was not uniform.
After reassembly of the trigger, I attempted to seat the trigger pin past flush with the trigger housing. It did, and seated a millimeter or so into the housing and the right hand side of the pin engaged both the housing and the base of the hammer spring. This secured the trigger and the spring allowing for a uniform pull and brake.
Functions just as it did before I had the restoration. Smooth :o
Picture to follow, But does this indicate excess wear?

[timshufflin]

1237Problem Solved! But, now I'm not sure I do not need to replace some trigger components!
After much playing with the trigger both in and out of the rifle, I've solved the problem. Is this a correct fit or do I need to replace something?
The trigger would "stick at the end of the trigger pull both in and out of the rifle, but was positional dependent. It felt and looked like the tension to brake was not uniform.
After reassembly of the trigger, I attempted to seat the trigger pin past flush with the trigger housing. It did, and seated a millimeter or so into the housing and the right hand side of the pin engaged both the housing and the base of the hammer spring. This secured the trigger and the spring allowing for a uniform pull and brake.
Functions just as it did before I had the restoration. Smooth :o
Picture to follow, But does this indicate excess wear?

It looks like you need a new trigger pin, it looks like it goes to far in. Either that or your housing is odd. It don't look right.

[Orlando]

Something doesnt look right with that pin
Pull it out and take a pic of it

[jak]

Something doesnt look right with that pin
Pull it out and take a pic of it

The hammer pin looks funny too. Did James River do any work on your trigger group ?

[swestland]

I just ordered replacement trigger and hammer pins from Ammo Grand.
http://www.ammogarand.com/m1-garand-part.html
The original pin is old with much wear visible, possibly original 1944 part.
When the replacement parts arrive, I'll post a photo of new and old side by side.
Steve

[swestland]

After installation of the new trigger and hammer pins, the trigger pull and brake is smooth and consistent. Problem solved.
And yes, part of the restoration that James River should have accomplishes was replacement of worn and out of tolerance components!
Presented is the original photo of the trigger with old pins. then old and new pins, finaly trigger with new pins installed.

124312441245

[Roadkingtrax]

The OLD pins looks like they were polished, strange.