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View Full Version : Anybody here done this rear sight base annealing procedure?



MrTwistedFock
06-12-2015, 02:36 AM
Ive known about how to tighten up the rear sight for years on the M1. The basics, that is. The screw in the elevation knob needs to be really tight, the tooth on the elevation knob needs to be sharp and not worn, the spring inside the elevation knob needs to not be worn out and you do the basic tightening by tightening the windage elevation knob one click at a time until it wont rotate, then back off one click.

OK...simple there. But to get it even tighter, more mechanically repeatable.

I bought the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual from Brownells about a month ago. Ive been reading the section on the M1 sights with fascination. It is my opinion that the weak point of the M1 Garand is the rear sights, specifically the elevation dropping and moving under heavy recoil (mechanical repeatability). I learned about the rear sight spring cover need to be pressed down into a curve to be pressing against the aperture and rear sight base as being key to having a stable (repeatable) rear sight under repetitious recoil.

But here is the part that I find fascinating. Annealing the rear sight base with flame and packing Brownells heat stopping paste into areas of the rear sight base that dont need the annealing. And then letting it cool, grease it up and insert a greased aperture and put it in a vise upside down and slowly, very carefully tighten to get the aperture tighter fitting.

Anybody here done the annealing rear sight base guideways thing with Brownells heat stop paste before? If so, did it make your rear sight mechanical repeatability rock solid?

timshufflin
06-12-2015, 05:48 AM
This should be good, I'd like to hear if anyone has tried this one.

canes7
06-12-2015, 07:54 AM
I ruined on once using this method. That is the extent of my experience.

Old Guard
06-12-2015, 11:17 AM
Ha, I might try it if the rear sight cover was very expensive...but no not tried it...trying to picture it in my minds eye?

Orlando
06-12-2015, 04:12 PM
The way it is done by some is aneal the sight then take a sharp punch and dimple one or two spots on the side where the the track of the aperture slides so the aperture has no wiggle.I was told if I didnt aneal the sight first I would ruin the base. Well I had plenty of spare bases so I thought what the heck, ,it worked fine. I actually do this on all my builds now

MrTwistedFock
06-12-2015, 04:51 PM
Thanks Orlando, yes I read that is how you do it in Kuhnhausen's book. Ordered me some Brownells heat stop paste last night. If I ruin a rear sight base, I will just get a new one that is USGI or Beretta made of the harder steel and do it again til I get it right.

The Kuhnhausen book says to use a 3/32" flat base punch for peening, whats a flat base punch? Just a plain old 3/32" steel punch or a brass one? The one in the Kuhnhausen manual looks non brass.

Tight sights!


The way it is done by some is aneal the sight then take a sharp punch and dimple several spots on the side where the the track of the aperture slides so the aperture has no wiggle.I was told if I didnt aneal the sight first I would ruin the base. Well I had plenty of spare bases so I thought what the heck, ,it worked fine. I actually do this on all my builds now

Orlando
06-12-2015, 05:09 PM
I use a pointed hardened punch, no annealing needed

Old Guard
06-12-2015, 06:14 PM
I use a pointed hardened punch, no annealing needed

okay, i have noticed this on a rifle before, thanks for details. og.