M1 Garand Nigerian stock

[crazynoto]

I bought a couple of these they are straight out of the duplicator but pretty good only took minor fitting for the action. I wanted to buy them all and modify them for the bm59 cuts but I don't have time for that kind of undertaking. supposedly they were left over unfinished stocks from reese surplus (reese surplus surplus). (hampels gun shop traverse city Mi)
I know people are looking for Nigerian stocks so with a few hours of work you could have one for yor bm or garand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-Garand-Nigerian-stock-3-PC-/201673798023?hash=item2ef4b1f187:g:ui8AAOSwNRdX4uR x

Hope this helps out
PS getting closer on cranking out the clip guides.

[ordmm]

I bought a couple of these they are straight out of the duplicator but pretty good only took minor fitting for the action.http://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-Garand-Nigerian-stock-3-PC-/201673798023?hash=item2ef4b1f187:g:ui8AAOSwNRdX4uR x

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Looked at the ebay listing and from what the pics showed looked pretty good. Price was pretty good and probably the reason it sold so quick. Are they still producing these? And if so would you care to post some contact info----or will you be selling some?

Again thanks for the post!

[crazynoto]

No, old stock they are supposed leftovers from Reese just call the shop, I asked him some questions on eBay and found out where they were and called them directly. FYI they are a few bucks cheaper if you call them directly they had about 2 dozen 2 weeks ago

[flying2275]

Looks like they have more. Another one was listed tonight.

[crazynoto]

They have a bunch if you call them directly you can get a better deal

[seaninmich]

They have a bunch if you call them directly you can get a better deal

How much better?

[crazynoto]

Not much but it is worth calling them directly especially if you buy more than one. $25 less

[seaninmich]

Yours must have been more done than mine. I'd say the stock is about 80%. There is no inletting for a butt plate of any kind. It has to be shaped and mortised - that's not simple task. the pistol grip looks like it was carved from a tree stump with a dull hatchet. it will take a lot of sanding to get it close to smooth. The surface of the stock and guard and just a little rougher than concrete. I'm in the business of working on stocks. If someone sent this to me, they'd be looking at a few hundred dollars to make it workable.

[crazynoto]

Yep that pretty much describes it , I got the butt plate fit pretty quick but I have to bore the holes for the cleaning kit, the outside side is a little rougher than concrete, but I shaped the outside with a belt sander to get it roughed in ,I still need to set it o in the Bridgeport and make the mag cuts and bipod cuts. I have been looking for a Nigerian for years , I figured I could put some hours into these and actually have some , its easier to take wood off than put it on and it's easier than starting with a 2X6 it will just require some time. Or if I give up I can send them to you and in the end it will probably still be cheaper than if one ever becomes available on the market

[seaninmich]

The hole issue not drilled for the bolt to secure the pistol grip. How did you attach yours?

[crazynoto]

I didn't drill it yet but I have a pistol grip from a para I am going to copy the hole location and put a counter bore from the bottom of the grip so it is interchangeable with the plastic Italian plastic grip. I am going to mill a aluminum adaptor block to use the plastic grip on two of them.

[seaninmich]

Hate to say it, but these stocks are not a good deal and should not be purchased by anyone without considerable skills and tools

[Shug]

He raised his price from $175 to $195, too.

[koreanwargrandson]

Thanks for the warnings, i think I'll avoid one that needs that much work.

[Shug]

I was looking for a woodworking project, so ordered one just before he raised the price. It arrived today. That was really quick shipping. I spent three hours working on it already tonight, and only quit because my wife insisted it was past my bedtime.

My impressions:
1. Overall, well formed. Nothing that can't be fixed with a little woodworking skill. But assembling an AR, this is not.
2. Much of the work on the stock involves squaring routed fillets with a chisel. If you have a quality, sharp wood chisel set, this is easy. A razor or Japanese-type thin kerf saw is also useful. The stock cutouts are routed, which means that inside corners are filleted, but the Garand's legs are sharp-edged.
3. The biggest pucker factor was boring the buttstock holes. Obviously on a production line there are jigs to keep things straight; I had to do it freehand with the stock clamped to a bench. But I managed to go far enough for a cleaning kit without breaking through the side of the stock. Phew.
4. The mortise for the grip tenon needed to be a bit deeper. The wood chisel made quick work of that. It's also off-center by ~1/16", but I don't think it'll affect anything in the end.
5. There were a few outside corner fillets and chamfers that weren't routed, but comparing the Nigerian stock to an existing Garand stock made it real obvious where they should have been, and some sandpaper and the razor saw made quick work of that problem.
6. The wood of my stock has a pretty open grain. It drank pure tung oil like a sponge. But it looks nice. Yes, I know, pics. I'll post when I'm through.
7. The grip was some seriously hard, dense wood. It had some router scalloping, and needed a bit of sanding to smooth out. That needed some elbow grease. Maybe I'll knurl the sides eventually for a better grip, but not for now.

The one thing that is causing me pause is how to mount the grip to the stock. I assume there should be a very long bolt through the rear of the stock cutout down through the grip to a counterbored hole at the bottom. Is that correct? Keeping the bit aligned through the grip will be tough, getting the angle correct through the stock and the grip tougher still. One mistake and either one is ruined. Suggestions, anyone? Does anyone have some detail pictures of an installed grip?

[Shug]

eBay price back down to $175 today.

He raised his price from $175 to $195, too.

[seaninmich]

eBay price back down to $175 today.

Still too high. Based on what i got, anything over $100 is too much

[gman366]

You can get Nigerian stocks at [email protected], $385, + shipping.

[louColt]

The reason why I want a garand stock with a pistol grip is because I can't rotate my arms to hold a regular stock and I live in California so I can't put a pistol grip stock on my carbine which is what I really want to do. I cannot afford to buy an ar15 or another gun right now so this is the best solution I can find. Do you know where I could buy a Nigerian stock? Seems more traditional than a doomsday looking garand.

[ordmm]

I know it's more expensive in Cali, but I'd bet the going price on a complete, real deal, Nigerian stock might just be less than the cost of an AR15. Saying that,,,,,I'd opt for the Nigerian stock set.

[mikebaker1129]

Sean and Shug, I may have a couple of the bolts and nuts used to mount the grip on the Nigerian ,back from when I had some of these made. If using a plastic grip you will need to have a filler block made to keep the grip in position .
Is there a hole drilled in the wood near the heal area at an angle?
I will do some checking and see if I have any of the screws and nuts.
PM me your address again Sean?

[seaninmich]

Mike,

The hole is not drilled yet. These are terrible.

[Shug]

Mike,
Thanks for the offer, but I ended up using a 4", hex head 1/4" machine screw. It's not pretty, but then again nobody but me looks inside the stock. I'm not quite satisfied with how the wood grip fits and may end up machining an aluminum block to act as a tenon between stock and grip. But then I need to figure how to secure that block to the stock, because the wood between the bolt "shelf" and the mortise on the bottom of the stock isn't that substantial. If I went with the custom block, I'd probably fabricate one that would mate with an off-the-shelf modern grip of some sort. It's not as if these stocks have historic value. It's all just for fun.

These are definitely project stocks. If someone's buying one because, like me, they enjoy woodworking, then maybe it's worth the money (at the $175 cost, at least). But someone who is looking for something to quickly and cleanly bed a Garand into should look elsewhere.

Then again, other than SEI's EBR Garand "stock", I don't know where else to go for a Garand pistol grip stock anymore except for custom stocksmiths.


Shug

Sean and Shug, I may have a couple of the bolts and nuts used to mount the grip on the Nigerian ,back from when I had some of these made. If using a plastic grip you will need to have a filler block made to keep the grip in position .
Is there a hole drilled in the wood near the heal area at an angle?
I will do some checking and see if I have any of the screws and nuts.
PM me your address again Sean?

[mikebaker1129]

The stocks I purchased from Reese all had a wooden grip that fit the inletting pretty good. Those that came with the Plastic grip had a wooden filler block installed.

[Shug]

Here is the end result of my Nigerian stock efforts. Resting it in is a Mini-G that has been modified with a Standard Parts, LLC reproduction drop-down cylinder (which needed more fitting work than the stock), an Ultimak Pic rail, and a Trijicon RMR sitting on a Hopco mount. Yes, maybe I went too far with the tacticool stuff, but it's not as if there's anything historically accurate about the rifle.

The grip and attachment aren't as good as I'd like, so maybe some time later I'll mill an aluminum mounting block and stick an MSR grip on there. Anybody know where I can find one made in walnut?

1991

[ordmm]

Here is the end result of my Nigerian stock efforts. Resting it in is a Mini-G that has been modified with a Standard Parts, LLC reproduction drop-down cylinder (which needed more fitting work than the stock), an Ultimak Pic rail, and a Trijicon RMR sitting on a Hopco mount. Yes, maybe I went too far with the tacticool stuff, but it's not as if there's anything historically accurate about the rifle.

The grip and attachment aren't as good as I'd like, so maybe some time later I'll mill an aluminum mounting block and stick an MSR grip on there. Anybody know where I can find one made in walnut?

1991

Thank God we can count on the fact that the moron who was responsible for the gas cylinder that required so much fitting will absolutely, positively, never do them again. If anything, something good came out of your project.

[Shug]

Sounds like there's a story behind those GCs...

The cylinders were waaay undersized. When changing out to the straight oprod when I swapped cylinders, I had to silver braze a new oprod tip on the rod after shortening, and assumed everything would be okay because while the piston seemed tight, it passed a tilt test in the rifle. When I had a chance to shoot the rifle, the carbon fouling after about 5-6 shots seized it up tight. I had to batter the oprod handle with a screwdriver handle to extract the live round that wasn't quite chambered so I could safely pack the rifle up to go home. After I cleaned out the GC I gauged it, and boy, was I surprised. I thought I'd confused my GC Min gauge with the Max gauge.

I ended up lapping the oprod tip to the cylinder. Next time I get to the range I'll find out if I did enough or too much.

[ordmm]

Sounds like there's a story behind those GCLs...

The cylinders were waaay undersized. When changing out to the straight oprod when I swapped cylinders, I had to silver braze a new oprod tip on the rod after shortening, and assumed everything would be okay because while the piston seemed tight, it passed a tilt test in the rifle. When I had a chance to shoot the rifle, the carbon fouling after about 5-6 shots seized it up tight. I had to batter the oprod handle with a screwdriver handle to extract the live round that wasn't quite chambered so I could safely pack the rifle up to go home. After I cleaned out the GCL I gauged it, and boy, was I surprised. I thought I'd confused my GCL Min gauge with the Max gauge.

I ended up lapping the oprod tip to the cylinder. Next time I get to the range I'll find out if I did enough or too much.

Yeah, "Cylinders" ---must be a lot of them out there all messed up. No doubt there is a "story" behind them, one can only imagine. For sure, some good info to be had from this post. Never thought about a "go-no" gage for the gas cylinder as that sounds like a sure fire way to check the gas cylinder. Stupid me for spending money on a GI type gas cylinder gage, or, using a I.D. bore gage when a tilt test would have accomplished the same thing. Lapping sounds like a real money saver rather then checking the tip/piston with a mic after installing a new one and having to turn the tip to size as how many guys that do builds have a lathe available. Sure sounds like you know your business. All in all, a very informative post on changing over a Mini-G to a drop down gas cylinder!

[Shug]

For others' reference, here are the other parts I used for the build in addition to what I mentioned above:
Standard Parts:
- BM rear swivel, swivel nut, and swivel nut retainer.
- Builders' gas cylinder lock.
- BM stock ferrule
- BM straight oprod (shortened for the Mini-G barrel length with new standard-size tip silver brazed)

USGI:
- Buttplate
- Stamped trigger guard (milled will not work with the pistol grip)

Other:
- Holbrook device (replaces GI oprod catch)
- Shuster adjustable gas plug

[Eli]

Nothing to see here, move along...

Eli