Barrel may now still shoot slightly high if the bore was not cut concentric to the outside of the barrel OR could be all the way fixed if the last 8" of the barrel had a bend.Quote:
Originally Posted by axemurderer
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Barrel may now still shoot slightly high if the bore was not cut concentric to the outside of the barrel OR could be all the way fixed if the last 8" of the barrel had a bend.Quote:
Originally Posted by axemurderer
Orlando, Garands require downward pressure on the barrel to shoot correctly, most of that comes from the lockup of the triggerguard. That's why you feel pressure against closing the guard, it's pushing the barrel down with the Lower-Band as the fulcrum-point. Anyway, no pressure or very little pressure will cause the rifle to shoot high. Two things generally cause this; D-shaped Mainlugs on the triggerguard and Compressed wood at the floorplate. If the lugs look good, slip a business card between the floorplate of the triggergroup and the wood and close it. If you feel more pressure against closing, the wood's compressed. Shoot the rifle with the card in place, bet it will shoot lower.
HTH;
Dave
Guys, the D-shaping of the lugs is the reason you should use a little dab of grease on each lug, it helps to ease the lugs into lockup and slows the shaping process.
tim brings up a very good point, non-concentric boring. the only barrels I haven't seen this at one time or another is with VARs. The Danes could teach alot about barrel-making. Those are, without a doubt, the straightest, most-concentric, evenly-rifled barrels I've seen as far as Military barrels are concerned. The Worst, probably a tie between Marlins' early barrels and SA.
I'm with you on the downward draw, I thought you were suggesting to tight a lockup could cause problems
Thanks
I don't see any evidence of rubbing in the barrel channel. I will relieve it a little just in case. The stock ferrule is
tight. The trigger guard needs pressure to close about 5/8" before closing so I think lockup is good? No nicks
in the crown & looks good.
Tom
Tom
I would next try another front sight or measure the one you have against another. Might try swapping the Gas Cylinder if you have a spare
Tom, how tight does the lower-band fit on the barrel? Barrel spuds are expensive so, it's kinda hard for an ordinary shooter to check barrel straightness. That makes it hard to locate the center of whatever bend is in it. I've got a spud but, it never leaves the safe unless I need it. Mine's .290caliber and 20" long. Last one I saw was going for $250.00. What you could try is a smaller spud, say five inches long. Chuck the barreled action in a padded vice and use a round level on the Front sight mount of the gas-Cylinder to level it. Then, put a short level on the spud and see if it reads the same. It won't be the best but it should give you an idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Waits
Dave, I've had some luck shooting light through a bore to see if there are any shadows/dark "corners" in the barrel. You can't roll one, it will tell you nothing because there's just a lot that are not concentrically bored.
Oh, and I want to get get me one of those high falutin barrel spuds. My question is, how does one keep the spud straight? If it's anything like a pull through reamer rod, straight isn't in the cards.
Thanks guys
I don't think I'm ready for the spud yet. I have thiught about the taller front
sight. Orlando, what would changing the gas cyl do ? I have heard of them
being out of spec, but I thought that would cause functioning problems ?
There is SO much to learn. You guys are a great help.
Tom