That's what I'm here for Bro.
That's what I'm here for Bro.
Thats cool. Now if we could find a way to "ADD" metal to the bevel and go one turn out instead of in, we could start changing the cycle timing and soften the recoil. I played with that awhile back, but then found the adjustable gas plugs do the same thing in the end. :) Stu- you going to be selling anymore of these?Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlando
I only bought 3, of which I kept 1, and Tim and Orlando got the other 2 but someone here got all the rest. Just don't know who.
OK, I'm confused. If the bevel inside the GCL stops against the bevel on the barrel, how does milling/filing the rear face of the GCL allow it to turn more? Once the two bevels meet you could mill the rear face of the GCL 'til the cows come home but it ain't gonna' turn any farther--Right or wrong?
Jon
Quote:
Originally Posted by musketjon
MJ, they aren't doing anything to the face of the GCL, they are cutting the bevel it self.
Jon, take a look at the 4th pic, you can see the shiney new bevel that I cut.
Jon, filing the rear face of the lock just trues it up. My Post-War high hump was visibly warped. A few careful passes on a flat file trued it right up. The depth of the chamfer determines where the lock stops as you said.
For those of us without one of these tools (or any 45 degree countersink) or drawer full of GCLs to try, how about high-temperature threadlock to secure the GCL against movement. Loctite has a high-temp blue threadlock (650F)
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0608687
Has anyone tried threadlock or other adhesive as a substitute for perfect mechanical chamfer fit? If not, can anyone think of any problems with this fix?
The gas screw pulls the cylinder up against the lock if it doesnt time right
Getting a lock that times perfectly is really splitting hairs and is a National Match mod. From what I have learned from a old time armorer having a lock that rests against the barrel shoulder keeps the shock from the recoil from wearing the barrel splines and barrel threads.
Picking out a lock that times was not done when Garands were originally assembled
After I posed the question about Loctite, I decided to play around a bit on the workroom with my drill press and an 82 degree countersink because I don't have a set of 90 degree ones. The barrel shoulder isn't a chamfer, so I think angle won't make any noticeable difference.
Long story short, using countersink with a light touch in the press allowed me to time the lock to exactly 5:30. The barrel is a Krieger in .308, so I'm not worried that much about WWII-era authenticity for this rifle. I just want it to shoot better than I can, and with the forward sight bouncing around with the gas cylinder, I needed to do something. Yes, I could have peened the splines, but I chose this route instead.