I do these mods to all my shooters if needed
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I do these mods to all my shooters if needed
Quote:
Originally Posted by singleshotcajun
Ahh, I know your type :) I don't know which type I am but I have a little of everything in me. I don't believe fully that the last bit of free bore being gone will improve accuracy or that lapping bolt lugs will free up another bit of accuracy but things like barrel pressure I can buy into.
I'm convinced that it is the evenness of the wear of the lands that effect accuracy when a throat erodes. If you have one land receeding faster than the others then the bullet will endure a yaw effect when it hit the lands. If it enters the lands equally the bullet stays straighter. Same goes for muzzle wear, instead of entering the lands it's exiting. it's the only way I can rationally explain how you'll hear about all these barrels with high wear #'s that still shoot well.Quote:
Originally Posted by timshufflin
Bolt lug lapping is marginal at best. All it is good for is to tell if both lugs are contacting the receiver. If they are not you'll be better off getting another bolt. You'll most likely have to lap thru the hardened part of the bolt. I do not think that this function is an accuracy gain, in my opinion is more of a reliability function.
I'm done, I think. Installed the stock ferrule it has been lowered and centered. According to my notoriously unreliable spring scale I have about twelve pounds of down pull at the lower band and stock ferrule. I hope to shoot it tomorrow after my clubs Service rifle and 3 P Smallbore match but the forecast calls for 85 % chance of thunderstorms.
Anyway the weather finally faired off for some decent picture taking yesterday afternoon. Since this rifles main purpose is Bug out/SHTF the barrel date is only fitting
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...d/IMG_6877.jpg
All the pictures
http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../911%20Garand/
I will wish the best for your outing sir.
Thanks Tim. It shoots great thus far. Function tested it last weekend and set the Schuster valve for HXP. I shot after a match and set the zero for point of aim at fifty yards. I just shot Unsupported to make sure it will be bug out ready. Since I already made it non JCG match legal by screwing and gluing the upper hand guard I decided to bed the receiver. I finally figured out why the experts have you create clearance from the rear leg to the rear sight.................this is so you will have somewhere to pry if needed and not harm your bedding. I used grease for a release agent and the bedding still grabbed it really Hard. Used Belzona super metal epoxy and it came out well.Hope to send some rounds downrange this weekend and see how it shoots farther out.
Remove trigger assembly flip rifle over in your lap and stick a wooden dowel or brass rod inside of the receiver and tap on the dowel, etc to remove the action out of the stock. Better than prying on it. JMO
I tried the butt stock bump and the butt stock slap to no avail. Admittedly I did not try a brass or wooden punch as you suggested, next time. Most of my training and work experience is as a shop Machinist but for the last ten years I have done mainly field Machinist or Millwright work. This air gap that presents itself for a wedge is hard for a Millwright to resist utilizing. I used a one inch wide bronze wedge and the "little" hammer to get the receiver moving.Most match prepared Garands that I have had any dealings with have had this Clearance. Surely there is a reason for it.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...IMG_5175-2.jpg
There is a very good reason for the releived area just not the reason you are using it for :)
The cut isnt just for bedded stocks but should be present on wood stocks also. Hold up a USGI stock to the light you should see a small amount of light. The area isnt supposed to have much wood removed just approx the thickness of a piece of paper approx 1 " all the way to the rear of the receiver legs
Here is a rightup by a Gus Fisher, Retried Armorer that explains the reasoning
There is something very specific about the fit of the top of stocks for M1 Garand receivers. From the rear of the rear receiver legs going forward, there was a lot of contact for the bedding of the receiver. From the rear of the receiver heel going forward, it is a very different thing. The rear of the receiver heel going forward for about 1” to 1 1/8” is SUPPPOSED to contact the stock and then there is NO contact of the receiver heel as it goes forward until the rear of the receiver legs. IOW, you should be able to just see a very little clearance and maybe only a line of light between the top of the stock and the receiver heel WHEN you take the trigger mech out. (If you leave the trigger mech in when checking this, the hammer will cause you to think there is no clearance there.) OK, so WHY was the bedding deliberately set up for the front of the receiver and only the last 1” to 1 1/8” of the receiver heel? There was a twofold reason for that.
The first part of the reason is when the trigger mechanism is locked down by the trigger guard, M1 Garand receiver is pulled down on the top by being “sprung” a little between the high points of the front of the receiver bedding and the rear of the heel of the stock. Think of the receiver being bent so slightly you can’t notice it, but it is bent in a very slight concave curve. (Think of an upside down “U” in case you are like me and don’t always remember the difference between concave and convex. Grin.) By bending the receiver in that very slight concave curve, the heel of the receiver is held tightly to the stock and for good reason. As the bolt comes back in firing and hits the rear of the receiver, there is a LOT of twisting force applied the heel of the receiver. That means the heel has a tendency to lift up on the right side and dig in on the left side. We need GOOD contact of the entire last 1” to 1 1/8” of the receiver heel on top of the stock to counter those twisting forces so the wood stock is not battered down too soon.
The second part of the reason for the contact of the M1 Garand receiver heel being like this has to do with functioning. Seventh round stoppages were most often caused when a new type of boring was done on Garand receivers and the inside shoulder of the receiver behind the barrel (on the right side) was cut too much. MOST Garand receivers were corrected for that by welding more material in them. This was the most common cause of the dreaded “7th Round Stoppages” until the Arsenal got that corrected. HOWEVER, there is another reason for 7th round or other stoppages on Garand receivers and that is if there is NOT the clearance on top of the stock between the rear of the receiver legs and the last 1” to 1 1/8” for the receiver heel mentioned here. When there is not the clearance we have been talking about, the receiver can not be “sprung” in a downward concave curve and THAT causes stoppages as well. We almost never find this on G.I. stocks, but it is QUITE common to find there is not proper clearance in this area on COMMERCIAL Garand stocks. If your commercial stock hits the receiver heel where it is not supposed to, the easy fix is to lightly drawfile the top of the stock in that area until there is a very slight clearance between the top of the stock and the receiver heel between the rear of the receiver legs and the last 1” to 1 1/8” of the stock. Now, I KNOW this may be hard to believe, but time and time again I have “fixed” rifles from getting stoppages that could not be traced to other mechanical reasons by filing that clearance in place. When NM Garands are glass bedded to stocks, this clearance HAS to be put in them as well for both reasons mentioned
Thanks for that information Orlando. I always did this because noted experts called it out in list of things to do but never really questioned it. Setting up rifles to shoot well and learning how to do these things is a life long process.We all go through stages and sometimes it seems that the more you know the less you know. I do know that setting up a Garand is an art form.