1911 Parts Kits from SARCO

This morning big Brown delivered a 1911 Parts Kits with barrel from SARCO. I am very pleasantly surprised with the parts I received as compared to parts from SARCO in the past. The parts were clean but oily as you would expect. The barrel passed the go no go test on head spacing and doesn't need to be finish reamed. I'm going to inspect and count all the parts but so far so good. For $139 well worth the price. Some parts I probably will offer for sale as I usually use Wilson Combat for their spring/pin sets and their sear spring. Now on to Foster Industries for a stainless steel frame/receiver, $153.00.
Bill

So on a kit like this you need a frame to complete into a fully functional firearm? If not what are the rest of the parts needed and where to get?

Dan, you need this kit a frame and slide. If you look on their website they are selling out NOS slides from Para Ordinance which are far superior to the slides which come with Sarco kits. I got the Para slide in Stainless steel which came complete with sight cuts and sights, firing pin/spring and stop for $154.
Bill

Thanks.. I'll look into it. Sounds like it could be a cheap way to do a BYO 1911.

Dan, Caution! Building 1911's can become habit forming.
Bill

Bill pm in bound

Ordered one today, hope it turns out good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jjones

Ordered one today, hope it turns out good.

---

I don't know if you have a frame? Sarco is selling Rock Island frames which are so so and will work. I would suggest trying Foster Industries which is the parent company of Caspian. Foster sells frames which are visually seconds, they're good frames just might be mis colored a little. You might also buy a frame from Remsport. Remsport makes frames and rifles under contract for some high end companies who puts their names and serials on the frames. John at Remsport has stainless and steel in stock now. His contact information is: [email protected]
I just bought two ss frames and a slide from John which should be here this week. His frames use .250 radius on the beavertails and he sells them to fit for 35 dollars. I'll post pictures when the parts get here. I'm building one pistol as a gift to by best friend and shooting buddy, Terry for his birthday. The other I'm building for myself in .460 Rowland to hunt wild pigs, should be a handful.
Bill
PS: If you need assistance, advice or tools just ask.

Still haven't gotten the parts kit yet, how long does it take them to ship?
I am rebuilding a colt 1911 made in 1918. I have the slide and frame, just need everything else.

Sarco's shipping time is usually 10 days to 2 weeks. I received my two frames from Remsport today and very satisfied. I've already fitted some of the Sarco parts to the new frame, so far so good. Don't hesitate to yell if I can help.
Bill

Thanks Bill I will.

Got the parts in yesterday, all the parts look new,except the grips. They even look good

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jjones

Got the parts in yesterday, all the parts look new,except the grips. They even look good

---

For the $$ it's a heck of a deal. So far I've mounted the safety tube, ejector, trigger and MSH. The ejector was a little fat which is OK as I'd rather fit it and have it right. The ejector mounted in the receiver and the pin went right in. Later today I hope to install the hammer, disc, sear and hopefully the thumb safety. Photographs to follow on a separate thread.
Bill

Here is what I am starting with.

What do you have there? It looks like it needs a little clean up?
Bill

It is a colt 1911, that I think was made in 1918. It was brought to me to refinish, and if possible make work. They found it in a coffee can in their grandfathers barn. The only parts that can be used are the frame and slide. I have it sand blasted, and in the process of getting it ready for cerakote. I will post some pics when I am done.

'Sand-blasted', or did you mean glass-beaded??..We switched to glass beads years ago, and it make a much cleaner surface, with out eroding metal..IMHO. At any rate interested in how the cerakote works for you, I have not tryed it yet??Og

I don't use sand, I use 80 grit garnet. I have to use that so the cerakote will adhere to the metal. I will post pics when I'm done, the cerakote works great. This is one I did for a guy.

Jjones, good looking cerakote! I'm thinking of buying a small blasting cabinet. Do you have any recommendations?
Bill

I use a barrel blaster, it works great for pistols, and most rifles. It gets a little tight when doing barreled actions, but it works good for me.

http://www.barrelblaster.com

JJones, thank you for the barrel blaster info, I'm going to look into it. On another note the ejector which came with the Sarco kit isn't working correctly with my snap cap test on my current mule build. However in all fairness I can't pull the slide back with near the force a real projectile will. The barrel and barrel bushing dropped into my Sarco Para slide. The build loads fine but doesn't eject properly when cycled manually, if you can hold off on install until I have time to test fire this pistol to see if the added force will cause proper ejection. Just trying to save you from mounting a bad ejector.
Bill

I can wait, I have plenty of other guns to keep me busy for a little while. I will be looking forward to hearing how it works out for you.

Cool idea in the Barrel Blaster, I had not heard of them..Nice..We have a big model at work, almost 30 inch door and 4 feet wide..Converted to glass beads only, with dust collector bags..I see a lot of harley parts hit it, some actually dechrome with it?...we can use it on our own time...I put any small part i wish, as long as it is not obviously for a firearm???..It works wonders on cleaning our battery cables and pump parts and shafts, It's real purpose???Would certainly like to redue my barrel on my sporter, maybe some Saturday??

JJones, I finished assembly of the pistol tonight using the Sarco 1911 kit, Para slide and Remsport frame. Pros: Barrel dropped in and appears to fit like a glove. I'll know more after I test fire it and can examine the VIS. The barrel bushing fit the side properly without any fitting. The thumb safety only required a couple of strokes of a pink stone to fit. Cons: The kit was missing the MSH pin. The grip safety would require a lot of filling to have it fit the frame so I used the correct beavertail which came with the frame. Comments: I've polished all the parts in the firing system but still have a 5 or 6 pound trigger pull, I measure it tomorrow. The grip bushing, screws and grips all work proper and look good. More to report after test firing hopefully on Wednesday.
Bill

Sounds good so far. I get to spend the week at a livestock show for the 4h, so I will start cerakoting the slide and frame this weekend. I will post some pics when I get that part done.

Thanks for the update

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jjones

Here is what I am starting with.

---

I have a few legit 1911 take off parts the sear and disco have a light polish to remove some machine marks, if interested make a reasonable offer. The grip safety is the correct short tang.

Phil, what would you take for the MSH shipped to 41017?
Bill

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by paid4c4

Phil, what would you take for the MSH shipped to 41017?
Bill

---

Bill, $55.00 gets the whole lot shipped. The Mainspring housing is stripped, it does have the loop with pin. Many years ago I had a prewar 1911 Navy that I swapped some parts on too better match the pistols overall finish I later sold it and made a very hefty profit. No rust, I would like too see them go too someone that's restoring a USGI 1911. I have plans too head one out to Hawaii next Monday, If your wanting them just say so and we can wrap it up when I get back?

Phil, good move on Hawaii! I wish we were going to Hawaii but that maybe later in the year after Linda finishes treatment. The MSH is the only item I'd have use for as I have several of the other parts myself. I'm sure someone will take them.
Bill

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by paid4c4

Phil, good move on Hawaii! I wish we were going to Hawaii but that maybe later in the year after Linda finishes treatment. The MSH is the only item I'd have use for as I have several of the other parts myself. I'm sure someone will take them.
Bill

---

I'm in now hurry they been taking up space in the junk box for almost 20 years. I loose them and then they show up, can't figure it out I was hoping they would rub up on each other and a 1911 would appear...........

I still haven't shot my pistol however I did measure the trigger pull. The average on 10 pulls is 7 pounds. I took the pistol apart and polished all the parts in the ignition assembly. I reassembled the pistol and retested the trigger pull, still 7 pounds. I'm going to do some reading to see if I can get the trigger pull down to a more acceptable number. Let me know if you have any ideas.
Bill

After reading one of my Walt Kuleck's books on 1911's it became apparent the hammer hooks were way to large. Most books recommend 18 thousands but since I only have a 20 thousands feeler gauge I stoned the hooks to 20 thousands. I reassembled the pistol with 10 test pulls yielding a trigger pull of 6 pounds. I then prepped an old sear and installed in the pistol. 10 test pulls with the freshly prepped sear yields an average of 4 pounds 1 oz. I'm going to strip the black paint of of the original sear and put it back int he jig, prep it and try it again. The 4 pound pull was crisp without creep. It's ready to test fire.