Kitchen parkerizing a op rod....

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I have had some good results with my parkerizing parts in my stock pot. Now I am going to give one of my op rods a go but have no containers that are long enough to fit it into. I have thought about using a length of 3" ABS capped at on end and just fill it with the hot solution and dip the rod into it. Would the temperature stay hot enough for the magic to work? What would happen if I used copper pipe? Would the acid react in a bad way with the copper? Would I get some weird 'rare' colour or finish? If anyone has tried these methods, how did things go? Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. ZB.

copper or brass in your solution can = pink park. You can use the plastic no problem so long as it's rated for hot water.

Ooooh, a pink M1 rifle. I'd bet I could get Momma to shoot that one. Maybe she'd give my IP carbine back to me.
Jon

So the pvc needs to be rated for hot water, CPVC...Like i have in my home....I would like to try the park process....Could kick my own butt for throwing back those stained and scratched, Stainless pans the kitchen scrapped..from their buffet line..they were just too long..and my garage is full of crap now??

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Originally Posted by timshufflin

copper or brass in your solution can = pink park. You can use the plastic no problem so long as it's rated for hot water.

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I may just try a few scrap parts to see what happens. Pink or red tinged parts would be 'rare' and demand higher prices!

Awesome, an Pink Op rod for your rifle?? Be the first at the range...You could get rich overnight...And be in the Guns & AMMO Magazines?

I have a batch of manganese soup that is getting long in the tooth. It might just be worth throwing in some cut up copper pipe and shavings just to see what happens.

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Originally Posted by ZBeast

I have a batch of manganese soup that is getting long in the tooth. It might just be worth throwing in some cut up copper pipe and shavings just to see what happens.

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Manganese = purple
zinc = pink

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Originally Posted by timshufflin

Manganese = purple
zinc = pink

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What material gives up the mystical 'green' tint? ;)

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Originally Posted by ZBeast

What material gives up the mystical 'green' tint? ;)

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My belief? Hexavalent Chromium aka Chromatic Acid. It was used by the military during WWII to double the life of parkerized parts in the salt spray test.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erin_Brockovich

I would love to get some and try it, I just can't find any to get.

Would Sulphur turn it green?

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Originally Posted by melloman

Would Sulphur turn it green?

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I would try it and see if it does. I sure as hell haven't had squat for luck. :(

I have a email off to a lab supply shop regarding chromic acid flakes. If by chance they sell it to common folk is there any formula to how much is required per US gallon of parkerizing solution?

You want to use chrome oxide pigment--which is known as viridian. Viridian is a green artist's pigment and it will turn your parkerized parts green. I have investigated this with a chemist and he assures me that it will work.

The chrome oxide pigment powder should be dissolved in an acid. It would dissolve in the Parkerizing soup and it would probably dye the receiver green. Alternatively directly after Parkerizing, you might want to dunk the part in a mildly acidic chrome oxide/acid solution.

I would buy something like this:

http://shop.kremerpigments.com/en/pi...en-44250:.html

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Originally Posted by FluffyTheCat

You want to use chrome oxide pigment--which is known as viridian. Viridian is a green artist's pigment and it will turn your parkerized parts green. I have investigated this with a chemist and he assures me that it will work.

The chrome oxide pigment powder should be dissolved in an acid. It would dissolve in the Parkerizing soup and it would probably dye the receiver green. Alternatively directly after Parkerizing, you might want to dunk the part in a mildly acidic chrome oxide/acid solution.

I would buy something like this:

http://shop.kremerpigments.com/en/pi...en-44250:.html

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I've followed these leads before, to no avail. Anyone ever actually tried it? I'll check it out nonetheless.

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Originally Posted by timshufflin

Manganese = purple
zinc = pink

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If you have brake cleaner left on the parts because you didn't rinse them good enough before you dropped them in the solution they turn poop brown. FWIW :)

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Originally Posted by jbkf1003

If you have brake cleaner left on the parts because you didn't rinse them good enough before you dropped them in the solution they turn poop brown. FWIW :)

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Now that's sad :( I don't use any cleaner on my parts after I media blast so I haven't run into that.

There's this chrome oxide paint.


http://www.solventfreepaint.ca/paint...en_linseed.htm

Now what would happen if you mixed some of the paint with a little Vaseline and then coated a receiver with the mixture? Let it sit for a few months and see if it turns green.

Chrome oxide is reputed to be one of the most persistent pigments

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Originally Posted by timshufflin

Now that's sad :( I don't use any cleaner on my parts after I media blast so I haven't run into that.

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Yeah I don't do that any more. That was in the learning phase.

My 'bubba' parking tank.http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psixiganjh.jpg

The finished finish.http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psbjmffcll.jpg

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Originally Posted by ZBeast

My 'bubba' parking tank.

The finished finish.

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I don't understand, why would this be bubba? You found the perfect solution, in my opinion. I use this method for a few applications.

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Originally Posted by timshufflin

My belief? Hexavalent Chromium aka Chromatic Acid. It was used by the military during WWII to double the life of parkerized parts in the salt spray test.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erin_Brockovich

I would love to get some and try it, I just can't find any to get.

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FWIW, Granger claims to have Chromic Acid......their item # 8FV43.

The plastic pipe tube is a really good idea. Checked a chart and the liquid volume is not very much, and as you found out, preheated solution works just fine. Good idea!

It's not bubba. I lot of guys do it this way!

It worked out better than I had thought it would. It also helped that while the mix was heating up I threw the op rod into the kitchen oven to warm up.(170 F. for 10-15 minutes) I snagged a length of mechanics wire into the tube to help remove the rod when finished.

I threw some pennies into my old solution because I had read that perhaps copper or other metallic contaminants caused the greenish cast. I just used the solution on a Stevens 620 and it came out a nice dusty rose color. So... I get to reblast and make a new batch of solution.